In the cases where you are using two capacitors to replace one, you may find the holes aren't quite large enough for both leads. Reassembly is basically the reverse of disassembly. Once that's done, hose down the multiposition switches with some contact cleaner, work them back and forth several times (you may want to press the knob back on for this) and let the whole mess dry. Instead, I just took my cutting tool and scraped myself out a decent enough surface to glue the new capacitors to. Unfortunately, the ancient glue seems resistant to any chemical solvent I had available and was much too solid to easily remove by hand. In an ideal world, at this point we would remove the leftover glue that held on the caps we removed. Once the majority of leftover solder was removed, I grabbed the leftover capacitor lead with a pliers, and tugged while applying heat with the iron to remove the remaining capacitor leads. I then removed the majority of the solder from each marked joint using my soldering iron and a 'manual desoldering tool' (spring loaded desoldering vac).
#Pioneer d23 crossover manual free
It may take several iterations of this to free the capacitors. If you can't, reapply the cutting tool, and try rocking again. This should loosen each capacitor enough you can break it off by rocking it back and forth with a pliers. Take a razor blade, scalpel, or whatever reasonably precise sharp cutting tool you have available, and cut through the glue under each capacitor. With the joints all marked, cut the leads to each capacitor. Disassemble the binding posts to make things easier to work with, pull off the plastic back plate, and mark the solder joints for each of the capacitors (note that there may already be quality control marks in place ). With parts ordered, it's time to start on disassembly of the crossover. I tend to order one extra of everything in case I screw up. So, to fully recap two crossovers, you need: Since the exact values were not available, I combined capacitors in parallel (capacitance adds in parallel) to achieve the required values.įor C1, a single 50 uF capacitor was used.įor C4, two, 1.5 uF capacitors were combined. The voltage rating on the capacitors I used was 100V. But I used non-polarized electrolytic capacitors, similar to those originally used in the crossover. I've provided supplementary links below, but they may not be the exact capacitors I used. The links to the capacitors I used from Parts-Express are unfortunately broken. As is typical with 'vintage' (and probably modern, though I haven't rebuilt one), the right capacitors aren't readily available, so combining values is required. C1 is 50 uF, C2 is 30 uF, C3 is 5 uF, C4 is 3 uF, and C5 is 1 uF. On my crossovers, the capacitors are are labeled with their value in uF, but if you want, you can look at the schematic yourself over at AudioKarma.
You could unsolder them all and test them, but you've already come this far, you might as well replace them. Capacitors however never get better with age.
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